We have tapped into the insight of Sarah Kirk, a Paddock Paradise/Horse track system convert who has successfully installed this system on her small holding for her barefoot horses with the expertise of Digory Truscott Fencing Supplies. Digory's article will be published in a forthcoming issue of 'The Barefoot Horse magazine'
Digory explains:-
In this article I have endeavoured to provide you with a guide to fencing horse paddocks; with some emphasis on how to best compliment the Paddock Paradise System, created by Jamie Jackson.
What is a Paddock Paradise Systems?
After studying horses living in the wild, Jaime generated a system creating tracks around various turnout areas, recreating a wild horses’ natural environment, (continual) movement and behaviour, aiding a horse’s transition to being successfully barefoot. Through this article, I hope that I can share with you ways in which you can create this natural environment for your equine. There are so many options available to you, as the purchaser, that sometimes it can feel a little overwhelming and that fencing contractors are talking in a foreign language! I hope that I can help you to make informed decisions before spending hundreds of pounds on fencing products, to achieve the Paddock Paradise System (or any other paddock enclosure that you choose).
Location of the paddock
In order to achieve this, you need to ask yourself, ‘Which is the most suitable location for this paddock and whether you would be creating an area or track which in some environments would become a bog?’ If this is the case, you may need to be prepared to spend a sum of money laying hard-core or various other materials to create a more natural and suitable terrain. The natural environment for horses includes trees and water, given the option horses will choose to stand in water for periods of time. Also, think about including margins and natural breaks, if you are able.
Building the paddock
Having considered the location, now you need to contemplate which materials are the most appropriate to use in the erection of a permanent external boundary to the area. There are several options available to you, to achieve this. They include wire netting and post & rail. Let’s look at these in turn and think about the pros and cons of each:
Wire netting:
When considering the use of wire netting, be aware that some standard gauge fencing wire is not always suitable boundary material for horses. Most agricultural fences are constructed using either six or eight lines of horizontal wire (wire specification such as 8.80.15 / 8.80.30 & 6.81.225). This kind of wire netting may not be the best option due to the large gap between each line. If a horse can get their foot through, there is the obvious risk of injury, something you really need to consider. If you use this wire, ensure it is tensioned well, as it is easier for the horse to get caught up in slack wire.
The most suitable netting to safely retain horses would be something purpose made with the vertical and horizontal wires much closer together. The specification that you may wish to consider could be ’12.107.7.5’ (12 lines of wire/ 107cm high/ 7.5cm distance between the vertical wires). If you have a breeding program, then you should perhaps consider a smaller 50mm gap between vertical wires to best safeguard the foals. Hampton Steel's Hampton NET™ can be bought to this specification, see here for options.
To finish (or top) the wire fence, you have four options available to you: barbed wire, plain wire, an electric wire/tape or a rail. If opting for barbed wire, please ensure that the wire is tight or it is wickedly dangerous. Plain wire is not that visible and therefore can prove a risk to the horse when at play, or in moments of stress. Either electrified wire or tape are well proven, but will need frequent maintenance (tape is more visible and is the most commonly used in my experience). Finally, you have the option to top your wire fence with a timber rail. These are aesthetically pleasing and give a great visible barrier, but you will have to anticipate using more posts/stakes to compliment the fixings.
Post and Rail:
This can be a more expensive option than the wire equivalent. Three rails on your post and rail fence will adequately protect against horses; especially if you have a hedge or bank as a back drop to the construction. However, dependant on the horse’s nature, two rails on a post and rail fence will suffice. As horses are selective feeders, it often works well to introduce a complimentary feeder, such as sheep, to their field. The two-rail fence allows the free movement of their companions under the fence.
To finish (or top) the wire fence, you have four options available to you: barbed wire, plain wire, an electric wire/tape or a rail. If opting for barbed wire, please ensure that the wire is tight or it is wickedly dangerous. Plain wire is not that visible and therefore can prove a risk to the horse when at play, or in moments of stress. Either electrified wire or tape are well proven, but will need frequent maintenance (tape is more visible and is the most commonly used in my experience). Finally, you have the option to top your wire fence with a timber rail. These are aesthetically pleasing and give a great visible barrier, but you will have to anticipate using more posts/stakes to compliment the fixings.
If you are fencing a hedge boundary, and are considering ‘cutting-the-costs’, by erecting an electrified tape or similar, please don’t forget the maintenance issues with electric. Natural growth from hedges will earth the system.
Steel:
This material has been used in the UK extensively in the past and with great success. There are now steel stakes on the market, which are proving to be incredibly effective. See here for StapleloK from Hampton Steel, their innovative new steel post and staple system which allows for the posts and staples to be easily removed for reuse.
Timber:
Tanalised timber has traditionally been the most commonly used product to put into the ground. However, there are environmental factors that you may wish to consider. The tanalisation process has changed. As it is believed that the chemical which where used to treat the timber leached into the surrounding soil, and in the long term affecting the water table. The new treatments are much more environmentally friendly, but have to some extent proven to be less effective in terms of longevity. Every effort is being made by the industry to address these shortcomings. If you are still happy to proceed with this product then please be sure you use tanalised wood, and source timber that has been air dried before treatment, to ensure that the structure of the timber is most receptive to the treatment. Also, select the variety of wood carefully. Avoid putting white wood (such as Spruce) in the ground, as it has a shorter life expectancy. The last thing that you want to do is have to replace the fencing posts every few years. Ask any professional fencer and they will tell you to use either Larch or Douglas Fir (redwoods), as their longevity is far superior. Cedar is also a good option as it has a lot of natural oils in, but isn’t as strong. Pine is another suitable variety for tanalisation as it absorbs treatment like a sponge. If searching for suppliers of tanalised wood, try Googling ‘Bond Timber’, as they have won the national award for; ‘Treated Wood Trader of the Year’ at the ‘Wood Protection Association’ awards in 2015, and clearly know their business.
Reclaimed telegraph poles are predominantly pine and offer another option to you in your paddock construction. As we are sure you are aware, from looking at the telegraph poles throughout the land, their longevity is evident. However, you need to bear in mind that these telegraph poles are pressure treated with Creosote, and, once again, this may allow chemical leaching into the soil (as with the tanalised timbers mentioned above). New ‘pressure treated’ creosoted timber is available, as an alternative. If this product interests you, then please make sure that the timber is pressure treated and not just dipped so that the treatment can permeate the wood, rather than simply coating the outside. Again, try and avoid white wood in the ground, for the aforementioned reasons.
Chestnut, a hardwood, was used extensively in years gone by and is also available. However, it can be a little more difficult to work with and sometimes looks more rugged but does look great as a traditional mortised post and rail and is commonly seen in the South East.
Concrete:
Concrete is fairly common in the urban environment, but proves not to be so durable in a rural or field setting. Therefore, may not be a suitable option for your paddock. Concrete posts will usually cost more to install, owing in part to their heavy nature. Also every post will need to be dug in and either rammed up tight or concreted in. The labour costs involved, as a result, are usually disproportionate; they are also brittle and easily fracture.
Plastic:
Currently, there are lots of changes occurring in the technology of plastic and this maybe an option worth exploring. However, my experience to date has been that plastic is either too pliable in large posts or too brittle; as they can degrade in sunlight. This fencing material is something to keep an eye on in the future though.
For permanent highly-tensioned fences, there are not many cost-effective options for steel straining posts, apart from the crash barriers. (A straining post is needed at the end of the line or change of direction, to tension your wire to). You would also require a strut (stay) to support the straining post, whilst under tension. These can be made of either timber or steel. However, if you are erecting a steel post system, a steel strut should be your first choice.
The Internal Fences
These need to be functional and offer flexibility, with the option of easily re-siting or adjusting. Having enquired within the equestrian community, the preferred choice is electrified tape or rope, this implies a temporary system. However, you may consider a permanent construction; in the wild, features do not move every month or two! Permanency to your fence establishes environmental familiarity for you horse.
To conclude:
I hope, through reading this article, you now feel better equipped to make an informed decision about creating your Paddock Paradise System. If you would like further advice, then please feel free to visit my Facebook page Digory Truscott Fencing Supplies, where you can ask any fence related questions.
You can find more of our products that have been supplied for projects in these case studies.